5 Heroic Dogs

Actions Saved Owners’ Lives

Sometimes our dogs surprise us and give new meaning to the phrase, “man’s best friend.”
These faithful companions are willing to put their own lives at risk to come to our aid, or sense that we’re in danger and have the extraordinary sense to seek help on our behalf.
Here are just a few feel-good, noteworthy mentions that are sure to impress you.

1. Neighbor Alert

Charles Mitchell was tending to his yard in August 2010 when he noticed his neighbor’s dog lingering closeby.
When Missy refused to leave, Mitchell decided to follow the 11-year-old dachshund home. She led him straight to her owner, Charlie Burdon, who had collapsed from vertigo while recovering from heart surgery.
Yamhill, Ore., paramedics arrived on the scene and escorted Burden to the hospital, where he soon recovered. Both he and Mitchell, longtime friends, credit Missy for her heroic action.

2. The Nose Knows

This toe-eating dog made headlines this past summer after saving his owner’s life.
Following a drinking binge, Jerry Douthett passed out. He woke up to find his Jack Russell terrier, Kiko, sitting next to him, along with a noticeable amount of blood. That’s when he realized the big toe on his right foot had been chewed off.
Douthett’s wife, a nurse, had been pressuring him to see a doctor about a persistent pain in his foot. Turns out, Douthett had Type 2 diabetes; doctors also discovered that he had a serious bone infection and his toe would have to be completely amputated.
Had Kiko not sniffed out the problem, Douthett, whose blood sugar level was more than four times the recommended limit, could have died.

3. Dialing Dog

Belle’s quick thinking ultimately saved her owner’s life.
Diagnosed with diabetes, Kevin Weaver trained his beagle to detect blood sugar abnormalities through scent. He also taught Belle to call 911 in case of an emergency, by dialing “9” on his cell phone.
Weaver, whose blood sugar level had dropped dangerously low, collapsed at home and had a seizure. Belle recognized that there was a problem, grabbed Weaver’s cell phone and bit down on the number “9.”
After Weaver recovered, Belle became the first dog to receive the VITA Wireless Samaritan Award — an honor given to someone who used a cell phone to save a life, prevent a crime or help in an emergency.

4. Jaws of Life

Driving home in the pre-owned truck she had just bought that morning, Kathie Vaughan began to smell noxious fumes. The truck fish-tailed, then came to a screeching halt and began to catch on fire.
As the truck cabin began to fill with smoke, Vaughan’s first thought was to push Eve, her Rottweiler, out the door to safety. She then began to panic.
A paraplegic paralyzed from the waist down due to multiple sclerosis, Vaughan couldn’t access her wheelchair in the thick smoke.
That’s when she felt Eve’s jaw grab a hold of her ankle. The dog pulled her 10 feet from the smoking vehicle and as the truck burst into flames, Eve continued to drag Vaughan toward a nearby ditch, 40 feet away.
For her bravery, Eve was awarded the American Humane Society’s prestigious Stillman Award.

5. Shana’s Sanctuary

On a typically crisp fall evening in early October, Eve and Norman Fertig ventured out of their Alden, N.Y., home to feed and treat injured animals.
The couple, in their 80s, operates the Enchanted Forest Wildlife Sanctuary, where injured and orphaned animals of various species are rehabilitated and cared for.
As usual, Shana, the Fertig’s devoted 7-year-old German shepherd-wolf hybrid followed them out for their evening ritual. This night, however, turned out to be anything but the norm.
A flash storm quickly moved in, felling trees around the Fertigs and essentially trapping them in a narrow alley between the sanctuary’s aviary and hospital. Temperatures rapidly dropped and snow quickly began to cover the ground.
That’s when Shana devised an escape plan.
The dog, located on the other side of the Fertig’s unexpected enclosure, began to dig. For the next two hours, Shana dug a tunnel with her paws and nose, beneath the fallen trees. Barking to alert the couple to follow her, Eve began to crawl through the tunnel, at which time Shana dragged her forward by Eve’s sleeve.
Norman took a hold of Eve’s legs and Shana, a strong dog weighing 160 pounds, pulled both of them through a fence opening near their home, 200 feet away.
Without any electricity due to the storm, the Fertigs had no heat to keep them warm throughout the night. Shana came up with a solution for that, too. The dog lay across the couple, acting as a blanket, and kept them warm until the fire department arrived the next morning.
As a result of her heroic actions, Shana was given the Citizens for Humane Animal Treatment’s Hero Award — usually given to people, not pets.

Canine Oral Melanoma

Routine Dental Care Can Help Detect Common Cancer

Dog owners may not know that their pets’ mouths may be harboring one very common, life-threatening disease: oral melanoma.
Routine dental cleanings not only maintain a dog’s pearly whites—they also provide a veterinarian the opportunity to conduct a thorough examination of the mouth for unusual pigmentation and hard-to-spot tumors that can be indicative of oral cancer including oral melanoma.
Catching melanoma in its earliest stage is your pet’s best bet for survival.

Oral Cancer Symptoms

Symptoms of oral cancer are similar to dental disease. Symptoms include:

• Bad breath
• Drooling
• Bleeding from the mouth
• Facial swelling
• A change of food preference (from hard kibble to soft food)
• A noticeable difference in chewing habits
• A decrease in eating
• Chronic coughing
• Difficulty swallowing
• Weight loss

Diagnosing Oral Melanoma

Oral melanomas commonly occur in older dogs with darkly pigmented areas of the mouth, tongue and gums. Cats also develop oral melanoma but other types of oral tumors are more common in the mouth of cats.

"During an examination, we’ll open the dog’s mouth and look for broken teeth, swollen gums or anything unusual," says Dr. Eric Van Nice, who specializes in advanced veterinary dental care at Animal Dental Services in Tustin, Calif. "We like to take a good look around, just like a regular dentist."
Oral melanoma and other oral cancers can present as a pigmented or non-pigmented fleshy masses anywhere in the mouth.
To conclusively determine that an oral tumor or cancer is present, your veterinarian will first examine your dog’s mouth, and then perform a biopsy of the affected tissue. The biopsy will determine if the growth or tumor is benign, pre-cancerous or cancer.
"It’s important to get a biopsy to find out exactly what it is," explains Van Nice. "The biopsy is then sent to a pathologist, who will define the type of cancer for us. Next, an oncologist will determine what stage of cancer—if any—exists. How far has the cancer gone?"
A chest X-ray, blood work and X-rays and/or CT scan of your dog’s jaw will help determine if the cancer has invaded the jaw bone or metastasized (spread) to the lungs.

Unfortunately, the average lifespan of a dog following diagnosis of the most aggressive stage of malignant melanoma is five to eight months.

Treating Oral Melanoma

The good news: oral melanoma can be treated. The bad news: complete removal of the cancer is difficult and many times part of the dog’s jaw has to be removed. Tumor recurrence and metastasis is common with malignant oral tumors.

"One of the first questions pet owners should ask is, 'How advanced is it? What is the stage of cancer?'" recommends Dr. Mona Rosenberg. Her nine-doctor oncology practice has grown into one of the largest and most technologically sophisticated veterinary oncology practice in the world since she opened the doors in 1992. As chief of staff of the Veterinary Cancer Group she exclusively treats pets diagnosed with cancer.

"We try to determine if cancer is still local to the area or if there’s evidence the cancer has spread," says Rosenberg. "Potential behavioral changes can indicate that the cancer has spread to the brain, although that's not as common as metastasis in the lymph nodes and lungs."
To aggressively treat melanoma, an oncologist will surgically remove as much of the tumor as possible, as well as any cancerous bone growth. Radiation will then target the affected area in order to reduce the chances of recurrence. Because the chance of cancer recurrence and rapid metastasis is so high, chemotherapy and/or immunotherapy will be suggested.
Unfortunately, the average lifespan of a dog following malignant melanoma diagnosis is five to eight months. On average, 30 to 40 percent of malignant tumors metastasize in the early stages and quickly spread to the lungs, lymph nodes and other organs.
"Radiation has been found to help kill off remaining cancer with minimum short-term side effects, similar to a cold sore that can heal within a week or two," Rosenberg explains. "Dogs with metastasis will benefit more from chemotherapy than vaccine therapy."

Oral Melanoma Vaccine

Keep in mind, that while a new DNA-based vaccine for oral melanoma is showing promise in the effort to improve a dog’s survival rate, it is not going to protect your pet from developing oral cancer.
"The vaccine—or immunotherapy—supports a pet's immune system but doesn’t prevent the disease from occurring," says Rosenberg.
In March 2007, Canine Melanoma Vaccine DNA, an anti-cancer vaccine created for dogs diagnosed with the disease, was conditionally approved by the U.S. Department of Agriculture. During the initial vaccine melanoma study, many dogs survived on average 389 days—an improvement from the usual five to eight months.
While the melanoma vaccine is not a replacement for surgical, chemotherapeutic or radiation treatment, the potential to extend dogs’ lives is encouraging when used in addition with another treatment. Dog owners interested in learning more about the vaccine should consult with their veterinarians; at this time, the conditionally licensed vaccine is available only to specialists practicing veterinary oncology and is recommended for dogs with stage II or stage III oral melanoma. Other stages are being treated as well; results are being measured to determine if the use of the therapeutic vaccine should be extended.

Make Wise Choices

"We try to give pet owners choices so they can consider the pet’s quality of life," Rosenberg says. "If the treatment is worse than the disease—that's something to consider, particularly with geriatric pets whose immune systems may be topsy-turvy.

"If the disease is localized we can get it with surgery relatively easily. Often times, melanoma is very invasive and it may require removing a portion of the jaw. We don’t want to perform deforming surgery if it's not going to offer a more long-term outcome. Radiation therapy may be a better option than removing a portion of the dog’s jawbone. A pet’s survival rate will depend on the stage of the disease."
Rosenberg recommends that pet owners watch for any signs pointing to oral problems, such as blood on chew toys or blood in a pet's water bowl. "We need to get the word out sooner [about oral cancer] so that pet owners are more aware of the symptoms and treatment options."
While there is no preventive care for malignant melanoma, routine dental checkups and a thorough oral examination can greatly aid in early detection and diagnosis of oral cancers, and perhaps save your pet’s life.

Exercising with Your Dog 101

Do you feel guilty that your pet doesn’t get enough time with you? It’s a trap that happens to most of us, but one that can be easily remedied. Here are some guidelines for enriching your pet’s life and health through exercise.

Why Exercising Your Dog Makes Sense

Big or small, young or old, dogs need to exercise daily. While some breeds have special needs that have to be taken into account, and dogs do slow down as they age, they still need to take part in some form of daily physical activity. Without activity, your dog will become bored, frustrated and unhealthy. Exercise tones the muscles, helps the body and metabolic system to function properly, and engages the mind. Anyone who has had a dog that suffers from lack of physical activity and mental stimulation will tell you that they will often turn to destructive behaviors -- behaviors that magically disappear once the dog is getting out everyday.

Physically, dogs will also become obese if they are not allowed to burn off the calories they take in during the day. This is especially true if they are being given a lot of treats in compensation for lack of attention.

How Much is Too Much Exercise?

Though exercise needs are based on a dog’s age, breed, size and overall health, your dog should spend between 30 minutes to two hours on an activity every day. Breeds in the hunting, working, or herding groups (e.g., Labrador retrievers, hounds, collies and shepherds) will need the most exercise. If your dog is in one of these groups and is in good health, she should be getting at least 30 minutes of rigorous exercise along with her 1-2 hours of daily activity.

Requirements aren't as easily established for every other dog. Because most dogs are of mixed heritage, their needs will be different depending on the breed they are descended from. If your dog is a short nosed breed, like a Bulldog, for example, he will not need a lot of daily exercise. A casual walk around the neighborhood will be sufficient. Pay attention to your dog's signals. If he is restless or pacing, he is probably itching to get out for a nice long walk. If, on the other hand, your dog is content to just lie around, there may not be such a great need for exercise. A short walk will be enough to keep everything in order.

Dogs that are less active or older may have conditions that are slowing them down. Whether it is because of too much weight, achy joints and muscles, or they just like to mellow out most of the time, they still need some activity to keep the body working as it should.

Even dogs that are handicapped, like those that use specially equipped wheelchairs or carts, often enjoy a walk through the neighborhood. Some can even continue to take part in water activities!

If you have any concerns about whether your dog can handle a long walk or whether you should implement an exercise plan for her, talk to your veterinarian. You don’t want to pressure your dog into doing things that are too strenuous or you could end up with bigger problems. Start slow if your dog has not been accustomed to being physically active, and observe her response, adding more activities or more mileage as she gets stronger. Your dog should be happily tired, not exhausted, when you are done exercising her for the day.

Tips Before Beginning an Exercise Program

Before you begin an exercise program with your dog, be sure to visit your veterinarian for a health check. Your doctor can recommend an exercises plan that is appropriate for your dog's age, breed and condition. Plan to start out slowly and work your way up to longer walking or playing routines as they seem suitable. Additionally, don't forget to allow for a warm-up period and cool-down time at the end of your session. A leisurely walk to the park or around the block before exercise should be enough to warm the muscles and prepare them for a serious game of catch.

And don’t forget that mental stimulation is just as important as physical exercise. Don’t be afraid of taking new running paths with your dog, going to different dog parks in your area, or introducing new toys and games to your routine. Most importantly, spend time exercising daily, not just on the weekends, even if only for a short time. At the very least, dogs and humans alike can benefit from 30 minutes of physical activity each day. Start simple, without putting pressure on yourself or your dog, and you will find that you are both looking forward to this happy time of the day -- every day.

Why Free-Feeding is the Wrong Choice for Most Dogs

Do you leave food out for your dog 24/7? If so, you might be doing him a disservice.

There are basically only three ways (or some combination thereof) to feed pets:

1. Free Choice — food is available at all times and the individual picks when and how much their pet eats
2. Time Limited — owners put out food but take it away after a set amount of time
3. Amount Limited — owners offer a pre-determined amount of food and the pet can pick when to eat it

Free choice feeding is definitely the easiest option for owners — just fill up the bowl and top it off whenever you notice it getting low. Unfortunately, "easy for owners" and "good for pets" are frequently at odds with one another. Dogs that are free fed are at a high risk for becoming overweight. Who among us hasn’t snacked when we’re bored, even if we’re not all that hungry? Dogs will do the same thing. My owner’s been gone for awhile and the house is pretty dull without her … I know, I’ll see what’s in the bowl!

Even if your dog isn’t overweight, you should still reconsider free choice feeding. A loss of appetite is one of the first signs of many illnesses. Sure, you’ll eventually notice when your dog has stopped eating entirely (or maybe not if you think someone else in the house is topping off the bowl), but by that point the disease may have progressed past a critical point. I can’t overemphasize how important early diagnosis is to successful treatment.

Finally, leaving food out all the time is not very sanitary. Your dog won’t be the only critter that learns where to find its meal. You’re inviting insects, rodents, bacteria, and who knows what else (I’ve heard many a story of raccoons figuring out the doggie door) into your home when food is readily available.

In my experience, a combination of amount limited and time limited feeding is best for pets. Determine the amount of food that your dog needs to maintain an ideal body condition and offer only that much per day. If your dog hasn’t finished the meal in 15 to 20 minutes, pick up the food, discard the remainder, and do not offer more until the next regularly scheduled meal.

Using this method, you’ll become very familiar with your dog’s eating habits and quickly notice even the smallest variation away from what is normal. For example, a dog with dental disease and oral pain may still finish its meal but could take longer to do so. This is also a good way to feed finicky animals; sometimes pets just need to get a little hungry before they’ll decide to dig into the nutritious meal that you are offering.

What is anthropomorphism?

Anthropomorphism is "the attribution of uniquely human characteristics to non-human creatures and beings, phenomena, material states and objects or abstract concepts." It's a natural human tendency that is almost unavoidable, and something we need to be conscious of when we are dealing with our dogs. We often put very human ideas and feeling into our dog's heads — and they don't really belong there.
It's easy to come up with unhelpful examples of anthropomorphism:
A case could be made for much of the training based on pack theory being a big exercise in anthropomorphism. Are dogs really keeping a mental tally of who is in charge based on who walks in front of whom or enters a doorway first? Are dogs really in a constant battle with us for supremacy? Or is this just an example of something that an insecure human frets over?
Many house-training issues end up being anthropomorphized. People believe that dogs leave messes because they are angry when people go out for the day. And of course, when they come home they believe the dogs "know they did bad" because of an anthropomorphic misinterpretation of the look on their dog's face.
But is anthropomorphism always bad?
Alexandra Horowitz, who published the research on the "guilty look" and recently published "Inside of A Dog: What Dogs See, Smell, and Know", has an interesting paper she co-authored with Marc Bekoff on her Barnard College web site.
The paper contains a very interesting discussion on anthropomorphism and how it may be useful for analyzing and exploring animal behavior. Many consider it to be dangerous, as Horowitz and Bekoff indicate:
(some believe) using anthropomorphisms in the study of animal behavior is "dangerous," an "incubus" from which the field must "struggle to free itself" (Kennedy 1992); an "incurable disease," having "no place in a scientific study" (Kennedy 1992); uncritical, naive, and sloppy (summarized by, e.g., Burghardt 1985; Fisher 1996; Mitchell, Thompson and Miles 1997; Crist 1999); and the recent resurgence in such attributions "risks bringing back the dirty bathwater as we rescue the baby" (Wynne 2004).
These assertions are not unwarranted - assigning thoughts and/or emotions to a creature when they are not there is unscientific. But is it really possible to completely remove our human perceptions from our analysis of how and why our dogs do what they do? Horowitz and Bekoff make the argument that it is probably inevitable (even citing another recent paper by Bekoff) and I agree. While anthropomorphism can lead to some unfortunate practices in training, to pretend that it is possible to completely stop it is an exercise in futility.
The paper has a fascinating analysis of a study Horowitz did of human-dog play, and relates it to anthropomorphism. When we play with our dogs we are in steady, if not constant, communication. Are we subconsciously "translating" from dog to human while this is going on? Or is this a situation where our desire to assign human thoughts to our dogs is good, maybe even accurate most of the time? I think that both species need to have some sort of a limited ability to "get into each others heads" in order for the play to succeed.
It's important to be mindful when you communicate with your dog. You are talking to a different species after all. But it's OK to be human too. After all, it's not like you can help it.

Dogs and Chocolate

An Indulgence to Humans, Toxic to Dogs

Let’s face it. Most people tend to have a little chocolate tucked somewhere around the house. What many people don’t realize is that if their pup gets his paws on this rich treat it can trigger a number of toxic reactions including possible death.
"Approximately 97 percent of the cases involving chocolate toxicity are associated with dogs," says Dr. Justine Lee, associate director of veterinary services and emergency critical care specialist at Pet Poison Helpline, as “cats have a much more discriminating non-chocolate palate.”
Whether you live in a dog or cat household, it’s important to lock up chocolate safely in secured kitchen cabinets. This includes Halloween and Easter candy, along with less obvious sources like chocolate-flavored chewable, daily vitamins. When baking, make sure to keep chocolate chips and baking ingredients out of reach until immediate use; once you’re done making the treats, store them safely out of reach (like hidden away in the microwave). Prevention is always key when it comes to tasty chocolate!

Level of Toxicity

Different types of chocolate contain various levels of fat, caffeine and the substances methylxanthines. In general, the darker and richer the chocolate (i.e., baker’s chocolate), the higher the risk of toxicity. Depending on the type and amount of chocolate ingested, dogs might experience vomiting, diarrhea, urination, hyperactivity, heart arrhythmias, tremors and seizures.

Dark chocolate is about 10 times as toxic as milk chocolate.

Death is actually very rare, only occurring in about 1 in every 3,000 chocolate intoxication cases. Small dogs or dogs with a history of diabetes, pancreatitis, or heart problems are typically more sensitive to chocolate than large, healthy dogs.
Dark chocolate is about 10 times as toxic as milk chocolate. To understand various levels of chocolate intoxication, here are some simple guidelines:

• White chocolate: Not necessarily toxic but high sugar and fat contents can lead to vomiting and other illnesses like pancreatitis.
• Milk chocolate: Low levels of intoxication. 
• Baking chocolate and dark chocolate: High levels of intoxication.

Keep in mind that there are many things other than simply Hersey Kisses and big old chocolate bars that contain methylxanthines. Chocolate cake, fudge, brownies, cocoa powder, cocoa beans and even caffeine pills such as NoDoz can make dogs sick. (If your pup wolfs down one chocolate chip cookie, don’t worry – it shouldn’t cause a problem – the amount of real chocolate in just one is minimal.

Chocolate Emergency

Lee recommends that when a dog ingests chocolate, owners should immediately call a veterinarian or Pet Poison Helpline’s 24-hour Animal Poison Control at 1-800-213-6680. “We can help guide owners in calculating just how much methylxanthine is ingested, and whether or not the amount will affect their pet.”
Depending on the severity of the situation, a pet owner might be instructed to induce vomiting at home or rush the dog to the clinic for activated charcoal treatment to absorb the toxins.
In non-life threatening circumstances, veterinarians might just tell owners what to expect (i.e., chocolate diarrhea, vomiting) and to keep an eye on the pet while the sickness passes.

If you're interested in reading more about pet toxicities, you may enjoy our story on the top pet toxins and other pet food toxins.

One of the MOST Common Canine Diseases - What You Should Know

Dogs can't speak. When something Is wrong, they can't tell us what it is. It's up to us to try to figure out what's going on from the dog's symptoms-and these symptoms can frequently belong to more than one disease. One of the most common diseases in dogs is called kennel cough, and it's important to know the signs.

A symptom of coughing can be associated with a lot of different conditions. In many cases, pet owners think their dog has something stuck in his throat, or "has a cold." The cough associated with acute infectious tracheobronchitis, (ITB) or kennel cough , is a high-pitched, honk-like cough, sometimes followed by retching. (That is when the cough is productive, or causes something to "come up." Dogs don't cough up and spit like we do- they either retch or cough then swallow).

So what is kennel cough?

Kennel cough is a highly contagious inflammation of the trachea (windpipe) and bronchial tree caused by a contagious virus (adenovirus, parainfluenza virus, canine distemper virus) or bacterium (Bordetella bronchiseptica).

The disease is associated most often with dogs housed in a high-density population or boarding kennel. The infectious agents can be transmitted through the air or by contact with contaminated surfaces. Puppies and younger dogs are at greatest risk, but even old dogs can acquire kennel cough.

The incubation period from the time the dog first contracts the infection to the time that symptoms develop is typically between 3 to 10 days, and the symptoms can last for days to weeks. A mild to moderate cough without other symptoms is usually self-limiting; however, occasional cases become lingering and cause chronic bronchitis.

The cough can linger for days. In a worst-case scenario, the infection can turn in to pneumonia.

This is a very common reason dogs come in to emergency clinics and vet clinics around the country. The average cost for these visits and treatment is anywhere from $100 to $450 depending on what the individual dog needs.

When something is wrong, we want the very best for our pets. It's important to treat kennel cough as soon as you know your dog is infected, both to reduce their discomfort and to prevent pneumonia. That's why I urge pet parents to stay alert of their pets. The need for a vet visit can appear quickly, and you want to be prepared. To help with the rising cost of pet healthcare, many pet parents are considering pet insurance.

By the way - there is nothing you can really do to prevent a reaction like kennel cough. Just make sure your dog if vaccinated if he/she is boarded or in common contact with other dogs. Scope out any potential new kennel, doggy daycare, and boarding facility for the sounds of sick dogs. Remember that kennel cough is sort of like your dog's version of the "common cold" and can happen despite your best efforts.

Insurance for your pet is more affordable than you think. Plans from VPI Pet Insurance can start at as little as $1 a day and they cover the everyday emergencies we mentioned above.  I just checked the VPI website to determine how much pet insurance would cover for a problem like this and coverage ranges from  $255 to $510 dollars for kennel cough depending on the plan. At the end of the day (or year), getting pet insurance for your pet can really help you save on costly pet health care, Take a moment to get a quote today.

VPI Pet Insurance is America's #1 trusted choice for pet insurance and VPI is recommended by 4 out of 5 veterinarians. The plans are flexible to fit your needs and you can use any vet, anywhere in the world. Get a quote today and see for yourself why 84% of VPI customers are recommending VPI to their friends.

Dog Nail Trimming — Tips for Clipping a Frightened Pet’s Nails

Dogs can get extremely frightened by nail clippers. In fact, many pets get very dramatic during the nail trimming process, with lots of yelping, whining and sometimes, screaming! The vocalizations can be the result of pain, but more often, they’re the result of fear and nervous anticipation of pain. It’s not uncommon for a dog to start yelping before you’ve even placed the clippers against the nail!


This dramatic show can be extremely unnerving for the pet owner, especially if it’s paired with squirming and struggling, which increases the chances that you’ll cut the dog’s nail too short, resulting in an exposed quick (the live, nerve-filled portion at the core of the nail.)

There are a few simple tricks that can be utilized if you need to give a pedicure to a frightened, resistant dog.
Firstly, don’t let the dog watch as you clip his or her nails. Fear is a natural, instinctual response when you believe that a body part (even a nail) is about to be amputated! Furthermore, watching makes the dog nervous with anticipation, particularly if they’ve been “quicked” in the past (“quicking” refers to cutting a pet’s nails too short, exposing the nerve and resulting in bleeding).

To prevent the dog from watching, place a T-shirt over the pet’s head. The fabric portion of the shirt will hang down, serving as a visual barrier. Alternatively, a large piece of fabric can be tied around the dog’s neck like a backwards cape. You may need to have a second person who can hold up the fabric and keep the dog in place during the pedicure. The second person can also serve to distract the dog with praise and treats.

For large pets, stand the dog on the floor. For the front feet, lift the foot off the ground and bend it at the ankle so the foot is under the pet’s body as you’re clipping. For the rear legs, just lift the foot off the ground and clip.

The same method is suitable for small dogs, though some find it easier to have a second person hold the dog. Crouch down and place the T-shirt fabric on top of your head to prevent the pet from watching while you clip.

I recommend wearing a head lamp, as this provides the best, brightest lighting. Examine the nails carefully before clipping. It’s important to identify the quick; clip slightly in front of the quick to avoid pain or bleeding.
For pets with black opaque nails, you’ll have to make an educated guess as to where the quick ends. This can be difficult, so you may opt to get the pet’s nails trimmed at the groomer. Alternatively, nail filing tools like the Peticure or PediPaws can be useful for dogs with opaque nails.

Another tip: desensitize the dog to the feeling of the nail clippers. He will also need to be comfortable with having his feet handled. This is especially important for pets who struggle and squirm.
While you’re relaxing with the pet, you can “hold hands” — hold the dog’s paw and gently manipulate the toes. Similarly, when you’re relaxing together, simply tap the clippers against his nails. Don’t attempt to clip the nails, just touch the tool to the pet’s foot.

Once the dog is comfortable with “hand holding” and tapping, mimic a nail clipping experience. Stand the dog where you’ll perform the pedicure (or ask a friend to hold the pet just as you would do for a pedicure), place the T-shirt or backwards cape on the dog, then proceed to place the clippers over each nail. Gently close the clippers around the nail, but do not cut the nail. This is intended to get the dog accustomed to the sensation of the feeling of the clippers. The experience will not be painful, so over time, the dog will learn that it’s not something to be feared. Perform this faux pedicure on a daily basis until the dog is completely comfortable with the exercise, then you can start clipping. Continue to perform this exercise every few days thereafter.

Always keep styptic powder on-hand to treat a bleeding nail that has been cut too short. Corn starch is the second-best alternative; flour can also work. Dip the nail in the powder; this will help form a clot, which will slow and ultimately stop the bleeding. Keep dipping the nail in the powder until the blood stops flowing. After it has been stopped for approximately 15 minutes, disinfect the nail by dipping it in hydrogen peroxide.
Nails that have been cut extremely short can be very painful and they’re prone to infection; this is one of the few instances when bandaging may be required.

What's the Secret to Engaging Your Dog in Play?

Have you ever felt challenged when getting your dog to exercise or even play? Many pets, for various reasons, start to slow down as they age. 

Maybe they've put on a few extra pounds over the years making movement more difficult. Perhaps they are beginning to feel the effects of stiff, painful joints and not wanting to move as much and as fast.

As pets age, they can lose muscle tone through a process called atrophy. And when muscle atrophy progresses, your pet can end up with a weakened skeleton. This combination is often not a healthy one for your pet - it can open the door to various types of disease. And when it's more difficult to move, many pets want to move less, meaning that the disease gets worse as time goes on. 

And here's another thing... When your pet loses muscle or lean body mass, fat usually takes its place. So you're likely to end up with a pet that is over-fat and under-muscled. When this happens, your pet is more likely to suffer with back weakness, hip problems, a higher risk of injuries along with deteriorating nerves.

Maintaining your dog's physical well-being must be an important goal for your pet as she ages. Without a strong body, your dog could eventually become confined to her bed or dependent on you to move her around. I'm sure that's not what you want for your beloved pet. 

How do you help ensure she'll maintain healthy muscle tone? Through exercise.

All pets of all ages need sufficient exercise to help keep their joints moving easily, bones healthy, muscle tone maintained, and their heart and vascular system humming.

Research shows that dogs (and cats) need to be exercised at least every three days to help maintain muscle tone and prevent atrophy. During those exercise periods you want to raise your dog's heart rate for a continuous 20 minutes. 

Please don't make the mistake with your pet that many humans do when it comes to exercise - cramming a week's worth of exercise into the weekend just doesn't work for your aging pet. Doing so can damage delicate tissues, or wear your pet out so much that they are unable to move well. 

If your dog is overweight or out of shape, start slowly and gradually build up to 20 minutes. Each time encourage him to go just a little further than last time.

In addition to those 2 or 3 "workouts" each week, your pet needs some type of aerobic exercise every day. A good way to help get that is through a daily walk and lively play. It doesn't have to mean a trip to the park;even a little indoor play is great for your dog's health and happiness.

To help ensure an energetic play session, choose a toy that really fires up your dog.

A recent poll at PetPlace.com found that the two TOP dog toys, according to readers, were stuffed animals and squeaky toys. 

 

You get BOTH with an intriguing toy called Hide-A-Squirrel™   It's a puzzle toy designed to exercise and entertain your dog. Because it relies on your dog's natural instinct to search, stalk and capture its prey, dogs naturally respond. You'll be amazed at how well it "wakes up" the most sedentary dog!

Unlike ordinary squeaky toys, Hide-a-Squirrel™ challenges your dog to use his intellect and problem-solving skills, something that not many toys do. Your dog must use his wits to locate and remove the plush, squeaky squirrels from their home nestled in the plush "tree trunk".
And there's not just one, there are three squirrels for him to hunt and seize! 

Not only does this creative toy stimulate your dog's thinking, it helps to strengthen eye-paw coordination skills, too, all while engaging in a rousing game of movement and aerobic exercise!
Any toy that makes a dog become healthy and active is a win in my book, and the Hide-a-Squirrel™ is definitely one of those.

The Power of Pets

When shopping for the perfect pet, you'll hear lots of "oohs" and "ahhs", "he's so cute," and 'she's so cuddly." Rarely, if ever, are you likely to hear, "I want a pet who will save my life." But that may be exactly what you are buying.

In fact, recent studies, including one conducted by Saint Louis University with Miami University, prove that pet ownership has tremendous health and wellness benefits for "everyday" people.

Reporting on the Saint Louis University/Miami University research study, lead researcher Allen R. McConnell, Ph.D., explained. "We observed evidence that pet owners fared better, both in terms of well-being outcomes and individual differences, than non-owners on several dimensions. Specifically, pet owners had greater self-esteem, were more physically fit, tended to be less lonely, were more conscientious, were more extraverted, tended to be less fearful and tended to be less preoccupied than non-owners."

Unlike many studies, the Saint Louis University/Miami University study didn't simply examine the correlation between pets and their owners. Instead it examined the difference between pet owners and non-owners in several distinct areas. In all cases, pet owners were happier, healthier and better adjusted than non-owners.
That's not surprising, says Becky Krueger, director of Education and Public Relations for the Animal Protective Association of Missouri.

"Pets fill a home with love and affection. You can be having the worst possible day, but then you come home and your dog is just so excited to see you. How can that not brighten your day?" Krueger asks.


While dogs may get high praise for their tail-wagging welcomes, all pets actually have the ability to reduce stress, lower blood pressure and raise endorphins (those feel good neurotransmitters that produce a general feeling of wellbeing).

Krueger touts the benefits of cats, guinea pigs, rabbits, and even reptiles and fish.
Cuddling up to an iguana? Well maybe cuddling is out, but companionship is not. Caring for and talking to pets (yes, we talk to pets, even to the ones that can't bark back) is one of the chief reasons pet-owners tended to be less lonely and more conscientious than non-owners. Just remember that some pets require significant more care than others, Krueger advised.

"Cats definitely require less attention than dogs," Krueger said. "In fact, cats can fend for themselves even if left alone for a few days. For someone who has an active, independent lifestyle a cat may be a better choice."
And yes, the decision about what type of pet to own really does come down to lifestyle.
"What do you want from pet ownership?" Krueger asks.

Do you want a partner in physical fitness? Maybe you want a dog who will play frisbee with you, or one who can go on long walks? Maybe you want a cat who will curl up in your lap, or fish you can admire from across the room?


"We are very lucky at the APA to have wonderful adoption counselors who can help potential owners find the perfect pet," Krueger said.

Krueger also suggests that would-be pet owners be realistic.
"Puppies and young dogs require a lot of energy and attention from their owners, and the definition of 'young' changes from breed to breed and dog to dog. For example, seven is still consider 'young' for smaller breeds, but most larger dogs will be slowing down by that age. And," she cautioned, "animals can develop many of the same ailments as older adults."

Still, she says, older pets make great companions. To facilitate older pet adoptions, the APA offers reduced adoption fees on members of its Lonely Hearts Club — animals that are five years old or older or have been at the shelter for six months or longer.

All pets available from the APA are spayed or neutered, microchip equipped and up-to-date on their vaccinations.

Doggy Lanquage: Know what your Dog is saying

Have you ever wished that your dog could talk to you? I’m sure, like millions of others, myself included, that you have. Well, I have good news for you, dogs do “talk” to us, and they do it a lot. There are 2 forms of communication, verbal and non-verbal. We are constantly communicating to our dogs, whether we know it or not, through non-verbal communication (body language). Humans mainly communicate verbally.
We use non-verbal communication as well, but by far our primary method of communicating is verbally. Dogs, however are just the opposite. They mainly communicate through body language. They communicate verbally through whining, growling, howling, whimpering, etc.., but their primary method is through body language.

When interpreting what a dog is saying it is a MUST to take context into account. A dog can display the same body language in 2 different situations and she is not saying the same thing, even though it may look like she is. Context is everything when interpreting what your dog is trying to tell you. The body parts you need to pay attention to include the mouth, eyes, ears, position of the head, whether the body is stiff vs relaxed, hair along the top of the back (piloerection), and the tail.
All of these must be looked at together. For example, a dog that has his ears up and forward could be curious or be in a heightened state of attention and on the verge of aggressive behavior. It depends on what the rest of her body is doing. I will start at the head and work my way back. Remember, one body part will not give you a truly accurate assessment of what your dog is saying without looking at all the parts as a whole and without considering the context in which the signals are given.

Mouth

• Generally, an open mouth/relaxed jaw indicates a relaxed dog. On the other hand, a closed mouth can indicate a heightened state of attention and possibly, but not necessarily, impending aggression.
• If your dog is panting and suddenly closes his mouth, with ears erect and forward, something has likely caught her attention and she is focusing on it. This does not mean aggression, but things can go in that direction depending on the situation.
• The mouth can also give you clues as to what the underlying motivation is when your dog is growling. Is she fearful, or is she confident? A fearful dog will trying to show all of her teeth (incisors, K-9′s, and molars) when she growls (as in the picture here). It’s kind of analogous to a bluff in humans. She is saying “look at all my big scarey teeth,” but thinking “oh my God I hope this thing leaves me alone.” A dog that is confident will only show the incisors and K-9 teeth when growling. This is a dog that is not afraid of the situation. This is the growl of a dominant (confident is actually a better term) dog.
• Other body parts will help you to interpret mouth position. Ears that are up and forward indicate confidence or curiosity. Ears that are down and back indicate fear and/or anxiety.
• Yawning is a sign that she is uncomfortable and/or tense.

Tongue

• More specifically, licking of the lips. Dogs that are uncomfortable will often lick their lips. Usually, this type of lick is a quick lick. The tongue barely comes out of the mouth and goes back in really quickly. This is a signal of submission/appeasement/acknowledgement. For example, say you have caught your dog in the act of doing something she should not be doing, you say “no!” to her, and she looks in your direction and gives one of those quick licks. She is saying, “okay, I understand that you are upset, please calm down now.” If you continue scolding or punishing her, you will likely make her fearful of you because she is giving you submissive signals that are being ignored.
• A lick that is more pronounced is usually an indication of moderate to severe stress. With this type of lick, the tongue travels all the way back to the corner of the mouth. This is much more obvious than the quick flick.

Eyes

• It’s been said that the eyes are the windows to the soul. Well, when interpreting canine behavior, they are also a window into the mind. What you need to pay attention to is the direction of the gaze, the position of the eyelids (open wide vs squinting), and pupil size.
• Dogs that are uncomfortable will often squint and look away from whatever is causing the discomfort. A very common example of this is picture taking. Your dog may be looking at you and you see the perfect picture, but the second you raise the camera, she looks away. The camera is making her uncomfortable and she is trying to tell you that.
• If her eyes are wide open and she is looking directly at something or someone, she is at attention and may be issuing a challenge or threatening someone or something. Again, this doesn’t mean aggression, but she is closer to aggression than she was just a few seconds before.
• Pupil size can indicate calmness or stress (fear, anxiety, aggression). Obviously ambient lighting affects pupil size, so lets say that there is normal room lighting. Under normal room lighting conditions, dilated (large) pupils indicates arousal or stress. Normal pupil size indicates relaxation.
• Scanning of the eyes, looking back and forth and all around, usually while panting, with the ears back, and the head held low, is another sign of stress/anxiety.
• Blinking is a sign of submission.
• In general, the larger the eyes are, the more confident/threatening the dog is. Conversely, the smaller the eyes are, the more submissive/fearful the dog is.

Ears

• A dogs ears say a lot about it’s state of mind. The 2 extremes of ear position are straight up and slightly forward, which indicates confidence and attention (see Picture), and back and glued to her head, which indicates extreme fear and anxiety. What happens in between those 2 extremes is an indication of the intensity of the emotion she is feeling.
• Ears that are erect and as forward as they can be (often accompanied by bared teeth and a wrinkled nose) indicate that one should choose their next move carefully. This is a confident dog that will fight/bite if pushed too far.
• Ears that are erect and slightly forward indicates curious attention. Often the jaw is relaxed and open, but could be closed as well.
• Ears that are slightly pulled back and kind of splay out sideways indicates a suspicious/cautious emotion. She is not quiet fearful, but she is a bit uneasy about the situation.
• Ears that are pulled most of the way back can mean several things and other parts of the body must be considered when interpreting this position. If the teeth are not visible, eyes are slightly closed or squinting, the tail is tucked, and the head is held low, often accompanied by the quick lick, this is a sign of submission or she is signaling that she is not a threat. If the tail is held high, eyes are open, and the mouth is open and relaxed, this is a friendly posture and she is likely signally playful behavior.
• Ears that are pulled all the way back and are glued to the head, accompanied by a head that is held low, a tail that is tucked all the way under, and eyes that are squinting and scanning, indicates extreme fear/submissiveness.

Tail

• A wagging tail does NOT mean a happy dog. You must look at the position of the tail and the character of the wag.
• A tail that is held straight up/slightly curved of the back of the dog indicates attention and confidence (see picture). This dog is not at all afraid of what she is seeing. Often the tail will be stiff or have a slight wag that usually only involves the tip of the tail. This is not a happy dog.
• A tail that is held straight back/horizontal to the ground and is stiff/not wagging is signalling attention, but is a less aggressive posture that if it were held straight up. This is a cautious position and maybe a mild challenge to a stranger.
• If the tail is held horizontal, but not stiff, it is a sign of relaxed attention.
• A tail that is held just below horizontal, but not tucked between the legs, with an occasional relaxed wag that originates from the base (near the rear end) of the tail indicates a calm/relaxed dog.
• A tail that is near the legs, but not tucked in between, with a slight wag that involves mainly the tip of the tail, indicates insecurity/slight fear/slight anxiety.
• A tail that is tucked between the legs indicates a fearful dog.
• A tail with bristled hair down it’s entire length and is held upright indicates a threat/challenge.
• A tail that is bristled just at the tip indicates stress.
• A tail that is wagging from the base, usually the butt is wagging to, indicates a happy dog.
• A tail that is stiff, and just the tip is wagging, indicates a dog that is at attention. This is the wag that is present when I hear “I can’t believe he bit me! He was wagging his tail!”
• A special note is needed here: some dogs naturally carry thier tails low when relaxed (Greyhounds) and some naturally carry it high (Akitas).

Body

• A dog with stiff legs, an upright posture, with slow and/or stiff movements forward is telling you that he is very confident. This is an active aggressive signal from a confident dog that is willing to assert himself. He is not necessarily being aggressive, but things could go that way if he is challenged.
• If hair is standing up on the shoulders and down the back, coupled with a stiff and upright body posture, watch out. He is a serious dog and you should choose your next move carefully. This is a sign of increasing aggression from a confident dog. An attack could stem from this.
• Hair that stands only on the shoulders, and not down the entire length of the back, indicates fear. Usually the head will be held level or low and the ears will be back. This dog will bite if pushed.
• A lowered body posture with a upward gaze indicates active submission. This is often accompanied by the quick lick discussed earlier and the ears are usually pinned back.
• If a dog sits when approached by another dog, but allows the other dog to sniff her rear end, she is saying that she feels they are pretty equal and is giving a slightly submissive signal. This could also be somewhat of a calming signal if she is uncomfortable with the other dogs’ approach.
• If a dog rolls on her side, avoids eye contact, and exposes her underside, she is displaying passive submission. This is the equivalent of groveling in humans
• If a dog stands over a dog that is lying down, or places her chin or paw onto the back of another dog, she is asserting dominance over the other dog.
• If a dog turns her side toward another dog she is saying that she has a slightly lower social ranking than the other dog. There is no fear, stress, or anxiety involved in this. This dog is confident and is okay with the hierarchy.
• If a dog is challenged or threatened by another dog and suddenly begins to sniff and/or paw at the ground, stares off into space, squints the eyes, or scratches herself, she is displaying calming signals to the other dog. She is not submitting. She is just telling the other dog to calm down.
• A dog that is sitting with one paw raised is signalling insecurity and mild stress.
• A dog that rolls on its back and rubs her shoulders back and forth on the ground is signally happiness and contentment.
• A dog that crouches with it’s front legs, but has her rear end up in the air is signalling the desire for play.
• In general, when a dog tries to make herself look bigger (standing tall, hair raised, head up) she is confidant and is displaying dominance signals. When a dog tries to make herself look smaller (crouching low, rolling over) she is being submissive. Pointing the body, head, or eyes in the direction of another dog indicates confidence and maybe a threat. Turning the body, head, or eyes away from another dog is a calming signal to the other dog.

Remember, and this is PARAMOUNT, when interpreting a dogs’ behavior, context is EVERYTHING. All of the surroundings must be considered and, in many cases, tiny details of the surroundings must be considered. Also, look at the entire dog. If you make a decision as to what your dog is saying, it should always be followed by “because his mouth was X, his eyes were X, his ears where X, his body was X, and his tail was X,” not just because of one or two of these. Happy conversing!
The drawings below are from “How to Speak Dog” by Stanley Coren.

Winter Weight Gain - You and Your Pet

It is common for humans to struggle with winter weight gain. Whether the struggle is in preventing it, or losing the weight after the fact, seasonal weight gain is a fact of life for a lot of animals that live in seasonal climates. With the onset of colder temperatures — a time when food items become scarce — activity levels drop, metabolism slows down, and hibernation mode sets in. This is not limited to animals in the wild, however.

Even though we as a culture have devised ways to stay warm and active, and to stockpile plenty of food to get us through the winter months, our bodies still react with the age-old evolutionary methods for preservation. This is as true for humans as it is for our domesticized pets, and therein lies that struggle.

When a dog that is used to getting a daily walk around the neighborhood is now only running outside for speedy breaks, or a cat that is accustomed to a romp around the yard is now reluctant to spend much time outdoors in the cold, it naturally follows that the food that has been consumed is not being burned as energy.

Meanwhile, we are eating more at home, making larger and hardier meals, and stocking leftovers from holiday meals we have attended and made. As today’s pet owners will often include pets in many household activities, we are also sharing our foods with our pets. All of this extra eating without the commensurate physical activity causes our four-legged friends to pack on extra pounds, just as it does to us. So, what can be done to prevent or solve the issue?

Prevention is Key

If your pet is normally active and in good physical shape, create an exercise plan for the winter months so that he or she can continue to be active. This might be games of indoor fetch, a romp through the snow in the backyard, and a brisk hike when the weather allows for it. Just be sure to get out as often as possible so that both your pet and you can work off the excess calories.

If it is too difficult to maintain a regular exercise routine during the coldest months, consider cutting back on calorie intake to compensate for the lowered physical and metabolic activity. Fewer treats with a gradually decreased amount of kibble being fed should cover the difference.

Weight Loss Plans

If your pet is already overweight, a bit more work is going to be required, since you will most likely need to maintain the current weight, even as it is over the ideal. Unless your veterinarian has advised a specific weight loss plan with indoor exercise (i.e., with treadmills), you will need to take care in how much you exercise your pet or decrease your pet’s meal intake. Treats should be eliminated, but food should not be cut back dramatically — again, unless your vet has specifically advised it as a course of action.

Before embarking on any weight loss or exercise plan it is important to have your pet checked for underlying conditions that may be contributing to the weight gain. Only then can you and your veterinarian construct a sensible diet and structured, achievement oriented exercise program.
                      

Monitoring your Pet

If you are concerned about your pet gaining weight during the winter, schedule a visit with your veterinarian before the start of the winter season. Your doctor will record your pet’s weight so that it can be gauged with any further gains or losses.

Ask your veterinarian to show you how to check for certain landmarks signs that your pet is overweight or obese. The ribs and spine are two of the spots on the body that are most likely to indicate abnormal weight gain, when it does occur. If your pet has a history of weight issues, it is also important that you take him or her for a once-a-month weigh-in to make sure the pounds aren’t creeping up and that the current weight is being maintained as needed.